Different Types of Fertilizers

 In this article we will explain in detail types of fertilizers and their uses regarding providing nutrients to plants, and maintaining the quality of soil.

Fertilizers are complex chemical compounds that are necessary for proper growth and development of plants. They are either added to the soil or applied on the leaves of the plants in the liquidated form. They can be broadly categorized into two types – organic and inorganic fertilizers. Organic fertilizers include – cow manure, green manure, organic compost, etc. The inorganic ones are chemical substances prepared specifically to suit a particular purpose. They are also known as chemical fertilizers, and are usually available in a powdered and granular appearance. Some of them are also manufactured in the form of liquid.

Fertilizers primarily supply three major nutrients to the soil. They are – Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K). Hence, they are commonly referred to as NPK fertilizers.

Fertilizers with Nitrogen Content

In each of these types, the nitrogen present in them combines with other elements in a definite manner.

Urea: On the application of this type, the nitrogen present in it gets converted into ammonia. It readily dissolves in water, and is capable of showing quick results. It is found in the form of granules or pellets, and is white in color. Due to its tendency to absorb moisture from the air, it is often coated with a thin layer of non-hygroscopic material. Normally, it is applied during sowing time. However, care should be taken that it does not make physical contact with the seeds.

Organic Fertilizers with Nitrogen Content: Blood meal, oil cakes and fish manure are some examples of this type. Nitrogen present in them needs to be converted into a usable form through bacterial action. It is a slow process, and hence is used along with some quick action fertilizers. The benefit of these examples are that they also contain some other elements, which are required by the plants. For instance, oil cakes have traces of phosphorus and potash, and also of organic matter in large amounts.

Fertilizers with Phosphorus Content

The main ingredient of the phosphorus fertilizers is either naturally occurring or artificially synthesized phosphates. Described below are two examples:

Bone Meal: There are two kinds of this type of fertilizer – raw and steamed. Raw bone meal contains phosphorus and little nitrogen, and is insoluble in water. On the other hand, nitrogen is absent in steamed bone meal due to high pressure steaming. It is quite brittle, can be grounded to powder, and is good for those soils that are acidic in nature. It is applied to the soil either during sowing or few days before it.

Superphosphate: In this type, phosphorus is present in the form of phosphoric acid. Based on the manufacturing process, superphosphate has three different grades – single, triple, and dicalcium. When added to soil, the acid changes to water soluble phosphate. This compound is suitable for all soil types, and is used during the time of sowing or transplantation.

Fertilizers with Potassium Content

The two most widely used variety of potassium fertilizers are – sulfate of potash and muriate of potash. Both of them are highly soluble in water, and are added before or during sowing. They are good for sandy soil, and are used for particular crops like chilies, potatoes, fruit trees, etc. These fertilizers should be applied only if the potassium content of the soil is inadequate.

The basic advantage of inorganic fertilizers as compared to organic ones is that they are far less bulky. As a result, it becomes easier for the plants to carry them from the soil to its different parts. On the other hand, the upside of organic fertilizers is that they do not mix up with groundwater and cause water pollution, nor do they adversely affect the growth of surrounding plants.

How to Restore a Lawn Full of Weeds

If your lawn is patchy and full of weeds, it will never be the envy of the neighborhood. What you’re after is a lush, green lawn with even grass and no dandelions poking their way through. That may sound hard to achieve, but it isn’t too difficult if you follow these steps.

If you only have a few pesky weeds punctuating your lawn, you may be able to dig them up by hand—paying careful attention to make sure you get them roots and all. But if your lawn is overrun with weeds, you may need to start from scratch. Here’s our how-to guide on restoring a lawn full of weeds.

Restoring a Lawn Full of Weeds in 10 Steps

Step 1: Identify the Weeds You Have

In order to make a successful game plan, you’ll need to know just what kind of weeds you’re dealing with. Weed treatments are designed to target specific weeds, so what may work on your broadleaf weeds may leave your grass-like weeds A-OK.

Weeds come in multiple categories, either broadleaf, grass-like, or grassy.

Broadleaf

Appearance: Broad, flat leaves

Common types: Clover, ground ivy, dandelions, chickweed

Grass-like

Appearance: Similar to grass, with hollow leaves in a triangular or tube shape

Common types: Nutsedge, wild garlic, wild onion

Grassy

Appearance: Resembles grass, grows one leaf at a time

Common types: Foxtail, annual bluegrass, quackgrass, crabgrass

Weeds can be broken down further into categories based on their life cycle—annual, biennial, or perennial.

Annual: Produces seeds during one season only

Biennial: Produces seeds during two back-to-back seasons

Perennial: Produces seeds over many seasons

Step 2: Select a Proper Herbicide

Next, it’s time to select the proper weed treatment based on both weed classification and the stage in their life cycle. Pre-emergent herbicides tackle weed issues before they spring up. Post-emergent herbicides target established weeds.

Keep in mind that herbicides can kill whatever plant life they come into contact with—even if the label says otherwise—so handle with care. If your aim is to re-establish your lawn, as we recommend, killing your existing, thinning grass isn’t a big deal, since you will need to start fresh anyway.

Step 3: Apply the Treatment

For this step, it’s crucial that you follow the directions to the letter. Make sure you apply the proper product at the proper time. It’s a good idea to check out the forecast beforehand, since you don’t want any storms to wash away your herbicide.

Step 4: Wait It Out

How soon you can plant seed depends on the type of weed treatment you choose. Pre-emergent herbicides will prevent grass seeds from growing just as much as weed seeds, so it would be no good to sow seeds immediately after.

Depending on the type of weed treatment you choose, you may need to wait for up to four weeks. You can ask your local garden center for information about when it’s safe to plant.

Step 5: Rake and Till

Once the weeds—and grass, if applicable—turn brown, it’s time to bust out your rake. Rake up as much of the weeds as you can. Use your tilling fork to pull any extra weeds out and till the soil to prepare it for your amendments and seed.

Step 6: Dethatch and Aerate

Aerating your lawn can help break up thatch, the layer of decomposing organic matter between your lawn’s soil and grass blades. Thatch can be beneficial, since it can make your lawn more resilient and provide insulation from extreme temperatures and changes in soil moisture. But if it gets over a half-inch in thickness, it can cause root damage, including root rot.

Your raking and tilling from the previous step can help with dethatching, but you can also use a dethatching rake if the layer is too excessive.

Aeration improves your grassroots’ access to air, nutrients, and water. Use a spike or core aerator to break up the soil. If you use a core aerator, be sure to make two to three passes in different directions. Allow the plugs of soil you remove to decompose on top of your soil layer rather than remove them.

Step 7: Amend the Soil

Now, you can apply your soil amendment to ready your soil for the grass seed or sod.

Step 8: Lay Down Seed or Sod

You have a choice ahead of you. Do you want to lay down seed or sod? There are pros and cons to each.

Seed

Pros: Less expensive, more variety

Cons: Takes longer to germinate, can only lay at certain times of year depending on grass type

Sod

Pros: Instant grass, can lay any time of year, requires little maintenance

Cons: More costly, less variety in grass can mean less healthy lawn overall

To prepare the soil after either method, make sure you till it down to roughly 6 to 8 inches.

Laying seed

First, you need to choose the right type of seed for your lawn. That will depend on the region you live in—one that needs cool-season grasses, warm-season grasses, or a transition zone that allows more flexibility. After you determine which category you need, you can select specific grasses that may have attributes you’re after, like heat- or drought-resistance.

To seed your lawn, lay down approximately 1 inch of topsoil, then use a spreader to apply the seed to the soil.

We recommend using two different types of spreaders. For the majority of the work, you should use a broadcast spreader because they distribute seed evenly, allowing for thorough coverage. But you’ll want to use a drop spreader around the edges of garden beds to make sure you don’t inadvertently drop seed into them.

Always set the spreader to half the recommended drop rate and spread the seed in one direction, then one or two more in different directions to make sure the coverage is nice and even. You don’t want your lawn to have weird patterns or stripes.

Applying the right amount of seed is key. As a general rule of thumb, apply roughly 15 seeds per each square inch, then rake over the seed.

Top the seed with top dressing no greater than ¼ inch thick.

Then, it’s time to add starter fertilizer. Your best bet is to use a starter fertilizer high in phosphorus. However, due to concerns about water pollution, many states prohibit the use of phosphorus in fertilizers. Some states may allow phosphorus in fertilizers for establishing new lawns. If so, you’ll find fertilizers labeled “new lawn” or “starter fertilizer.”

Step 9: Water Your Lawn

Deep, infrequent watering can help establish your lawn by allowing it to grow deep roots, which can compete against weeds. Try to water your lawn about twice a week, in the morning before the heat of the day sets in. Lawns typically need about 1.5 inches of water per week, but that could vary based on the climate you live in and the type of grass seed you chose.

Step 10: Maintain Your Lawn

Proper maintenance is critical if you want your newly established lawn to stay weed-free. Mow at either the highest or second-highest setting. Vigorous grass won’t be choked out by weeds. Fertilize your lawn as needed to help it thrive.