Sunday, November 16, 2014

How to get rid of your Indoor Plants Aphids

What They Look Like

Aphids are tiny, soft-bodied insects that may be black, green, or red. They are pear-shaped and have long legs. Some have wings and others are wingless.

Where to Find Them

They typically attack new growth of plants. You may find them on growing tips and flower buds, where they suck plant juices leaving sticky deposits of plant sap. These plant-sucking insects cause distorted leaves and buds. Some types feed on roots.

How to Get Rid of Aphids

  • Home remedies sometimes do the trick. Try water or soapy water first, before resorting to harsh chemicals.

  • Wipe off plant leaves -- top and bottom -- with a damp cloth. This will remove insects and their eggs. If you have a large infestation, spray the plant with water several times to dislodge the pests from the plant.

  • Clean heavily infested plants with a cloth or sponge dipped in soapy water. Use mild dishwashing liquid that doesn't contain fragrance or other additives. Squirt 2 teaspoonfuls into 1 gallon of room-temperature water and gently wash the plant's leaves, undersides of leaves, and the base of the leaves where they attach to the stems. If this seems too tedious, cover the soil with a newspaper or plastic wrap, hold the plant by its base, and plunge the foliage into the soapy water. Wait 10 minutes then rinse the plant well using room-temperature water.

  • It's a good idea to spray your plant once a week with a solution of soap and water to prevent bugs from coming back. Remember to rinse the plant with clear water afterward.

  • Rubbing alcohol kills aphids, too. Dab them with a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol. Repeat applications every 2 to 3 days. This method works well, but use it with caution. Covering the whole leaf with alcohol damages plant tissue.

  • If you have a large infestation, or just some stubborn bugs, try an insecticidal soap. Made of sodium or potassium salts, insecticidal soaps are effective and are not harmful to people or pets if they are used as directed on the manufacturer's label.

10 House Plants You Can't Kill

No house plant is indestructible. However, there are a feisty few that can't be beat for their tolerance of light, water, and humidity. If you want easy success with house plants, I recommend these power players:

Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron scandens)
One of my favorites. Also known as the Sweetheart Plant, this is the most popular of the philodendrons because this one stays small and it is so easygoing. It's drought-tolerant. I don't recommend letting it go too long without a drink, but it will recover nicely.

Dragon Tree (Dracaena marginata)
Put this one in a bright location and it will reward you with carefree beauty. The Dragon Tree doesn't like its feet wet, so I recommend good drainage.

Jade Plant (Crassula ovata)
Jade Plant gets more beautiful with age. Tolerates room temperatures year-round. A succulent foliage plant, it's happy with indirect sun and little water.

Cactus (Cactaceae family)
You knew this one would make the list, didn't you? Because of its ability to store water and nutrients, a cactus seldom needs watering. Loves to bask in the sun. Tip: Cacti look great together in a sunny window.

Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)
Often mistaken for a palm (it looks like one, hence the name), this plant is actually a succulent more closely related to the yucca. Its swollen base stores water, so occasional lack of water will do no harm. It is slow-growing so buy one already the size you want.

Mother-in-Law's Tongue or Snake Plant (Sansevieria)
If all else fails, grow Sansevieria. It thrives in full sun or partial shade. Prefers dry air and soil. Rarely needs repotting. Ideal for beginners, but seasoned gardeners also love this accent plant's dramatic, sword-shaped leaves.

Pothos or Devil's Ivy (Epipremnum aureum)
This vigorous plant is well known for its long, trailing stems that can grow to 8 feet or more. Cut them back a couple times a year to keep the plant bushy and full. Pothos is forgiving if you forget to water it once in a while, but it doesn't like waterlogged soil.

ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas Zamiifolia)
ZZ Plant makes a great room accent and practically thrives on neglect. This easy-going house plant is forgiving if you forget to water, tolerates low light, and rarely needs fertilized. I highly recommend adding it to your collection.

Spider Plant or Airplane Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)
An impressive plant for beginners. The stems produce little white flowers, then are soon weighted down with plantlets. Prefers bright, indirect light. A dependable plant.

Wandering Jew (Zebrina pendula)
Beautiful and low maintenance. Glistening purple and green leaves make this one a stunner. Fast-growing stems can reach 3 feet, so pinch often to keep it from getting leggy. Likes moist soil.

Poisonous Indoor Plants

Poisonous house plants should be handled with caution. Some can cause illness if eaten, and others can cause skin irritation.

Children are unlikely to eat house plants, but some brightly colored fruit may seem tempting. Call your physician immediately if your child has eaten any plant and shows signs of illness.

Cats, especially, and some dogs may play with or chew on plants. The toxic sap in poisonous house plants tastes extremely bitter and can cause a burning sensation in the mouth, so a pet is unlikely to play with them long. If your pet has eaten any of these plants and shows signs of illness such as vomiting, drooling, tremors, or any other abnormal behavior, contact your veterinarian immediately.

It's a good idea to keep your hands away from your eyes and mouth while pruning or repotting these poisonous house plants, and to wash your hands thoroughly afterward. If your skin is sensitive, I recommend wearing gloves while handling them.

Here's a round-up of the usual suspects:

  • Angel's Trumpet (Datura candida): all parts are extremely poisonous
  • Anthurium (Anthurium species): leaves cause severe burning in mouth and skin irritation
  • Arrowhead Plant (Syngonium podophyllum): sap is toxic and can cause skin irritation
  • Asparagus Fern (Asparagus densiflorus): poisonous berries
  • Calla Lily (Zantedeschia species): all parts are poisonous, especially rhizomes
  • Chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium): leaves are poisonous if eaten and cause skin irritation
  • Croton (Codiaeum): poisonous sap
  • Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia milii): sap causes irritation in mouth and eyes
  • Cyclamen (Cyclamen species): tuberous rhizomes (roots) contain the toxin cyclamine
  • Daffodil (Narcissus): poisonous sap
  • Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia): sap causes painful swelling of mouth and throat, as well as vocal loss if eaten
  • English Ivy (Hedera helix): leaves are poisonous if eaten; sap can cause skin rash
  • False Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum capsicastrum): poisonous berries
  • Glory Lily (Gloriosa superba): all parts are extremely poisonous
  • Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis): all parts are extremely poisonous
  • Oleander (Nerium oleander): all parts are extremely poisonous
  • Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum): sap causes severe burning in mouth and skin irritation

  • Philodendron (Philodendron species): can cause skin irritation

  • Poison Primrose (Primula obconica): all parts can irritate sensitive skin

  • Pothos or Devil's Ivy (Epipremnum aureum): non-lethal, but causes burning sensation in mouth

  • Sago Palm (Cycas revoluta): all parts are poisonous; the seeds contain the highest amount of toxin
  • Schefflera (Schefflera species): can cause burning in mouth; skin irritation
  • Swiss Cheese Plant (Monstera deliciosa): leaves cause severe burning in mouth if eaten
  • ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas Zamiifolia): all parts are poisonous

Another plant you're probably wondering about...

  • Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is not toxic, but I wouldn't recommend eating it either (it can irritate your stomach). Poinsettia got a bad reputation because it belongs to the Euphorbia family known for its poisonous plants. So this holiday favorite has been unfairly blamed for the bad habits of its family members.

Watering Indoor Plants

If you've enjoyed indoor houseplants for any length of time, you’ve probably lost a plant or two.

Insufficient and excessive watering are among many reasons a plant might fail despite what seem like pampered conditions. In some cases, pampering may be precisely the problem.

Water serves as an important transport medium, allowing nutrients to travel from soil to plant cell. But too much water in the soil layer forces air from the root zone, reducing the plant’s oxygen supply.

Unfortunately, there is no simple rule dictating how often houseplants should be watered. Some plants, adapted to bog or swamp life, enjoy soaking wet conditions. Other plants--the succulent family, for example--have adapted to long periods of dryness between heavy watering. Soil medium and pot type influence how efficiently a container holds moisture.

How to evaluate soil moisture?

Know the conditions you’ve given your plant to thrive in. Plants can be grown in almost any container, but some containers are better suited for plant life than others.

Clay pots are porous and tend to draw moisture from the soil, so plants in clay pots will more easily dehydrate. But if the container is enameled, or if it is metal, glass, plastic, or other non-porous material, the container will not leach moisture. Because these pots conserve water, you must be careful not to overwater.

If your planter does not have drainage holes in the bottom, be sure to provide for a drainage layer of stones or other non-degradable material in which excess water can collect away from the root zone and can be gradually reabsorbed. Plants grown in closed containers may not need watering as frequently.

Peat, a natural product of bogs, is generally an ingredient of potting mixtures. A word of caution about peat-based potting mixes: peat is added for its water-retention ability. However, once allowed to dry, peat is very difficult to rehydrate.

Learn to spot check a plant’s moisture level. If your plant is small, make a habit of picking up the plant before and after watering noting its weight change after watering. With practice, this method of checking soil moisture, together with other signs of plant vigor/weakness may help you assess a plant’s watering needs.

Similarly, a finger submerged an inch or so into the container soil should reveal a general sense of soil moisture. Or better yet, use a moisture meter. This is a foolproof, inexpensive device available at most nurseries. It will measure the soil as "wet", "moist" or "dry". For large container plants, a meter is almost essential.

Signs of dehydration and overwatering

Stem and leaf wilt signal dehydration, but you should avoid waiting for this sign. In addition, the soil mixture may pull away from the side of the pot. At this stage a plant is stressed, and repeated treatment of this sort is ill advised.

Watch for these signs of dehydration:

Leaf growth is slow.
Leaves become translucent.
Leaves or flowers drop prematurely.
Leaf edges become brown and dried.
Lower leaves curl and yellow.
Frequent watering with small amounts of water can lead to waterlogging. This forces air from the soil and provides ideal conditions for the growth of fungi and bacteria. These organisms attack the plant’s roots causing rot and plant death.

Certain plants thrive in wet conditions--cypress or umbrella plants, for example. Many tropical plants with thin, delicate leaves--hibiscus, for example-- will not thrive in dry soil. Other plants will fail under wet conditions. A late and obvious sign of overwatering is growth of fungi or mold on the soil surface.

Early signs of overwatering signs include:

Young and old leaves fall at the same time.
Root rot--mushy, brown possibly odorous roots--are seen in pot bottom.
Standing water noted in container underliner.
Flowers become moldy.
Leaves develop brown soft rotten patches and fail to grow.

When a plant needs ample watering

Never water routinely every so many days. Water when a plant needs it. Learn about your plant’s need for water (See resources below.) Then adjust watering according to these general guidelines.

Plants need ample watering:

When they are actively growing, i.e. it has young leaves or flower buds.
If its leaves are thin and delicate and tend to brown at the tips if dry.
When they are located in warm rooms with direct sunlight.
If it has many large leaves which transpire heavily.
If its root mass has filled its pot.
If it is growing in a relatively small pot.
If it has been newly propagated.
If it is growing in dry air (i.e. forced air furnace heating, dry climate).
If it is native to a bog or marshy area.
If it is growing in a clay pot.

When to water sparingly

Cactus and succulents as well as plants with thick leathery leaves that do not transpire moisture heavily will suffer in wet conditions.

Similarly plants with thick fleshy roots or moisture storing structures on their roots are not to be overwatered. These plants should be given just enough water to barely moisten the pot mixture throughout and should be planted in a potting medium that drains readily. Water this type of plant in several stages from the top a little each time, never watering so much that water appears through the drainage hole at the bottom.

When watering from below, put no more than 1/4 inch of water in the plant underliner or saucer. Water again when approximately 2/3 of the pot mixture has dried out.

Other times to water less:

A plant is resting following flowering or fruiting.
A plant is grown in a cool room.
A plant has been repotted and its roots are repenetrating the soil.
A plant is grown in high humidity, for its leaves obtain moisture from the air as well as from the soil. This would be the case of plants in terraria or greenhouses.
A plant is grown in plastic, metal or glazed ceramic container.
A plant is growing in a water retentive mixture, especially a soil based mixture.
A plant’s leaves are thick and rubbery or its roots are fleshy or have water storing structures.

How to institute self-watering

Vacations and especially busy times pose challenges for houseplant growers. If you haven’t a fellow houseplant enthusiast to lean on in these times, here are a few tricks you might implement when needed.

The moisture wick

Obtain a wick of water-absorbing material such as candle wick or old shoe laces. Remove the plant carefully from its pot, taking care to disturb the roots minimally.

With a pencil, knitting needle or other thin blunt instrument, push one end of the wick into the center of the plant’s root ball. Guide the other end through the drainage hole in the pot and replace the plant in its pot. Support the plant above some water containing vessel, e.g. on two small 1x2 inch boards above a kitchen pot or sink. Place the wick  into the water. Capillary movement of water into the pot will take place as the soil medium dries.

The capillary mat

A capillary mat is a self-watering mat made of thick felt, one portion of which is laid in the bottom of a sink, the other on a drainage board adjacent to the sink. Plants are placed atop that part of the mat on the drainage board and the sink is filled with water. Capillary mats work best for plants in plastic pots with many holes.

Clay pots should not be used with the capillary mat as the pots will themselves absorb the moisture, transferring little to the soil medium. The wick method may be a better choice for these.

A moisture tent

After watering the plant, construct a tent over it using a dry-cleaning bag or similar clean, clear plastic material. Provide ample air space. Move the plant to a more cool location.

The tent acts to conserve water by creating a more humid environment, and the cooling reduces transpiration. The combined actions serve to lengthen the watering interval, but caution is required. This method is of value for closed-container plants when used over short periods of time. Only brief infrequent applications of this technique are recommended.

Emergency measures in watering disasters

If the root ball has receded from the sides of its pot, there is little sense in trying to water from the top or pot bottom. Water will simply drain through the pot along the sides. It is likely that the plant will be showing considerable stress with leaf/stem wilt or death, but if you have arrived in time, there may still be a chance to save it.

Using a fork, gently break apart the dried-up potting mixture.
Submerge the pot completely in a bucket filled with water until air bubbles cease to rise.
Prune away obviously dead growth and mist the remaining with a spray bottle.
Allow excess water to drain from the pot, then remove the plant to a cool place. In a few hours the plant should begin to recover. If so, you’re in luck.